![]() This year, having decided that the Thyme lawns once again needed replanting, Troy, my Head Gardener, asked me to take the opportunity to research the history of the Thyme Lawns, and see if we could discover what the precise, original planting and design would have been in Vita’s day. Generally, the Thyme Lawns look really good about one or two years after planting but gradually start to deteriorate thereafter. Whilst it is true that creeping thymes are able to withstand a moderate amount of footfall, this is normally the case when they’re planted in the small gaps between paving, where their soil is somewhat protected from compaction. Part of the problem may also be due to some visitors walking over the plants this would appear to be evidenced by the concentration of dead or dying plants on the periphery. This was not the first time (no pun intended) the lawns must have been replanted at least a dozen times since their creation in around 1950. It was only 3 years ago that we dug over the area, adding plenty of sharp grit, before replanting with a variety of freshly grown thymes. Our heavy Wealden clay is clearly not their favoured growing medium, and if you add to this the fact that the area is prone to flooding through poor drainage of the moat, then you have some major obstacles to overcome in order to achieve sustained success. Our Thyme lawns however, are sited on the north side of a yew hedge which casts a surprisingly long shadow. Usually thyme grows on south or west facing slopes which are sunnier. Thyme also grows in poor shallow soil, for example on screes, in chalk pits, on limestone pavements and in rocks beside footpaths. Our native thyme, Thymus serpyllum, prefers well drained soil and grows on heaths, downland and moors, where the grass is close grazed by sheep or rabbits and also on roadside verges, where the grass is regularly cut short mechanically. Unfortunately, it has to be said, they’re also an expensive and rather troublesome one too. If you don’t mow the thyme, which you really don’t need to, it will self-seed and continue to fill itself out with time, so this step generally won’t be necessary.The Thyme Lawns, which are located at the far end of the moat just outside the Herb Garden, are one of the historically defining and much loved features of Sissinghurst. Once your thyme lawn is established, you may want to annually spread a new layer of wooly thyme seeds, especially in areas that appear bare. Once established, reduce watering to once per week. It will take about 2 weeks for wooly thyme to germinate if you spread seeds. You want the soil to be moist but not wet. ![]() The thyme will slowly fill in the empty space between them. Plant wooly thyme plugs approximately 16 inches apart from one another in a grid.Thyme started from seed takes a long time to get established and growing. You can spread a layer of wooly thyme seeds across the top of the soil, but my preferred method of planting patches of thyme is by plugging in already-started plants. Once the soil is properly prepared, you can plant the thyme.Thyme grows best in well-draining soil, so breaking it up with a tiller before planting will aerate the soil and help prevent issues like root rot. This will help to loosen the soil for the thyme to take root. ![]() Till the soil to a depth of 6-8 inches.Remove existing grass, weeds, and debris, and then evenly spread a 2-3 inch layer of compost or loam soil over the area you want to plant. Start by preparing the soil for planting.Wait until the days are warmer and the final frost is behind you. Don’t jump the gun on this! While thyme is a perennial herb, a hard frost can kill it if it isn’t yet established. ![]()
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